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Nov. 3, 2006
So near and yet so different
Seattle is the perfect place for a quick weekend winter getaway.
CAROL SOKOLOFF
If winter's darkening days find you dreaming of distant shores,
a brief getaway may cure those November blues. "A change is
as good as a rest," the old adage goes, so I recently set off
to Seattle for a quick visit that left me stimulated and refreshed.
Known as the Emerald City, Seattle is no green oasis, but a dense
metropolis on the shore of Puget Sound, a forest of concrete and
glass rising at its core. To remain "livable," Seattle
has wisely invested in culture, heritage and neighborhoods with
a remarkable program of public art. Museums, theatres and galleries,
historic architecture, colorful markets and districts, great shopping
and a rich musical tradition offer delightful diversions in any
weather. Visiting in the winter, when the cultural season is at
its height, is also ideal because popular attractions are far less
crowded.
From my base at the Mayflower Park Hotel, a romantic European-style
establishment in the central shopping district, I considered my
plan of attack for my exploration of this vibrant town.
To get an overview of the region, I started with an extraordinary
sightseeing tour on a Kenmore Air seaplane. Taking off from downtown's
Lake Union, home of a houseboat community, the float plane flight
featured spectacular vistas of Elliot Bay's active harbor, skyscrapers,
the Space Needle, sports stadiums, the shipping locks, nearby islands,
impressive Mount Rainier and the glaciered Olympic Mountains.
Afterwards, I headed to the eclectic Fremont district for some art,
food and jazz. Filled with studios, galleries and cafés,
"Funky Fremont" is the home of some of Seattle's best-known
public art, including the giant Fremont Troll, who lurks beneath
a local bridge. On Sunday mornings, the Fremont market is a bargain-hunter's
paradise.
Historic Pike Place Market, mere blocks from my hotel, is Seattle's
prime attraction. The following morning, I strolled down for a market
breakfast. Amid fish, fruit and flower stalls, I feasted on colorful
sights and sounds, enjoying tasty samples of smoked salmon and organic
dried fruit. The market in summer can be oppressive with crowds,
but this quiet autumn morning, I experienced at leisure the brilliant
melange of market life.
My next stop was the Pacific Science Centre, at the Seattle Centre,
to see the Dead Sea scrolls, the earliest Torah artifacts. Discovered
by Bedouin shepherds in caves near the excavated Essene settlement
of Qumran by the Dead Sea, these ancient texts come alive in this
engaging and interactive exhibit, on display until Jan. 7. Papyrus
fragments, so fragile they cannot be exposed to bright light, contain
Hebrew and Aramaic calligraphy of Torah and apocryphal texts. Because
it is slightly difficult to see them clearly in the dim light, large
banners reproduce and translate the age-old calligraphy. A lecture
series, free audio guide, interactive stations and wandering actors
bring alive the ambience of the Qumran age. The science museum's
regular displays, from dinosaurs to space, are of great interest
as well, particularly to the young.
At the Seattle Centre, the site of the 1962 World's Fair and current
home to several arts festivals, you'll also find the Seattle Children's
Theatre and Museum, the Space Needle and the EMP music museum within
reach. The elegant Space Needle, symbol of the 1962 fair, dominates
the skyline, resembling something out of the '60s TV show The
Jetsons. Glass elevators take visitors to a rotating restaurant
and observation deck. Not far from its base are the curving, mirrored
walls of the Experience Music Project. Designed by the renowned
Canadian architect Frank Gehry, the museum celebrates contemporary
music and Seattle's musical heritage. At its core rises a "music
tree" three stories high, its trunk sporting hundreds of guitars.
Daily rock concerts in the Sky Church performance space and interactive
music labs keep visitors entertained, along with rotating exhibits
on rock legends including Seattle's Jimi Hendrix.
After this busy day, I was ready to unwind at Dimitriou's Jazz Alley,
one of the city's fine jazz clubs. This spacious supper club, with
excellent acoustics and sight lines, is a favorite with artists
such as Oscar Peterson, Cleo Laine and Nancy Wilson. Nearby Tula's
and the Triple Door also offer jazz at its best, in an intimate
club setting.
The next day, I visited Pioneer Square, just south of the main shopping
district, the earliest part of the city. This tree-filled area was
settled in the 1850s, but largely rebuilt after the Great Seattle
Fire of 1889. Romanesque red brick buildings line the streets, filled
with galleries by day and blues clubs by night. On a prominent corner,
Elliot Bay Books offers room after room of new and used and titles
and is a centre for literary culture, with frequent author readings.
Perhaps due to the rebuilding that took place after the devastating
fire, downtown Seattle is filled with outstanding heritage and art
deco structures sporting elaborate friezes, neon or ironwork. The
intricate canopy over the classic department store, Macy's Bon Marché,
is echoed in ornate downtown street lamp standards. Everywhere Seattle's
public art policy is in evidence, with murals and sculptures and
even decorated street surfaces. Up on Capitol Hill, a bronze Hendrix
wails on his guitar. In downtown public squares, residents sip ubiquitous
cappuccinos amid sculptures of various descriptions.
If the chilly months are finding you blue, you might want to follow
a yellow-brick road (or a blacktop highway) to this vibrant Emerald
City. Between the museums, theatres, concerts, street art, jazz
clubs and colorful districts, you'll discover some potent magic
to fight the winter gloom.
Carol Sokoloff is a Victoria freelance writer.
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